https://emiliakmann.com Emilia K Mann Sat, 11 Jun 2022 16:29:50 +0000 https://emiliakmann.com en https://emiliakmann.com/Home Wed, 08 Jun 2022 05:27:41 +0000 Emilia K Mann https://emiliakmann.com/Home https://emiliakmann.com/Material-Meditations Wed, 08 Jun 2022 23:48:33 +0000 Emilia K Mann https://emiliakmann.com/Material-Meditations Material MeditationsProposals for creating and owning clothes in our material past, present, and future. Senior Thesis (Fall 2021-Spring 2022).&nbsp; <img width="2048" height="1536" width_o="2048" height_o="1536" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/47e67ef59ab89233c904b701eb8906faffec3a752ad124edde09de9c7df63ed6/Atacama-Desert.jpg" data-mid="145556698" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/47e67ef59ab89233c904b701eb8906faffec3a752ad124edde09de9c7df63ed6/Atacama-Desert.jpg" /> Atacama desert, Chile, which has become a destination for garment disposal for the fast fashion industry. Photographed by Argentine journalist Jason Mayne. The apparel industry struggles with sustainability and ethics at almost every step in the process. From the production of raw materials, whether they be petroleum-based synthetics (non-biodegradable and shed microplastics) or resource-intensive natural fibers, to the massive disposal of garments in landfills. The industry is responsible for staggering amounts of environmental destruction (water pollution, land degradation, carbon emission) and social injustice (child labor, sweatshops, hazardous work conditions). The proposals in this collection seek to begin to address these failures in the system by questioning everything from the origins of our fibers to the archetypal forms of our garments to the process of manufacturing and the end life cycle. Based on the timescale and material origins of the proposals they have been loosely categorized into three categories, Past, Present, and Future.Past repurposes existing textiles.Present utilizes available sustainable fabrics and design solutions that increase wear.Future uses mycelium, the vegetative structure of a mushroom, to upcycle waste from the apparel industry. While the garments are separated into three categories, they are meant to be styled with one another, demonstrating how these solutions can and should interact and coexist.&nbsp; Special attention was also given to the design of the garments and how they can be made to fit beautifully on a multitude of bodies. A sustainable solution created without keeping people in mind, what they would want to feel and wear, will never be able to have a meaningful impact. No single innovation will resolve all of the industry’s problems. These proposals are meant to be a beginning point for the kinds of solutions that could be implemented to move towards a better future—where the clothes we wear uplift the earth and people who made them. PAST <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1a65de82476121af220c608ab83312ec0a5199c474c59b8c17ac7cef3b32aae1/TFF04613-min.JPG" data-mid="152999222" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1a65de82476121af220c608ab83312ec0a5199c474c59b8c17ac7cef3b32aae1/TFF04613-min.JPG" /> Past repurposes existing garments to create new pieces. It is estimated that every second, a garbage truck's worth of clothing is burnt or buried in a landfill. Only 13% of textiles from the apparel industry get recycled. This low rate results from the lack of recycling infrastructure, the high cost of recycling textiles, and our current inability to effectively recycle blended fibers. Second-hand shops have been one answer to this problem, but they also come with a myriad of issues—for instance, the huge volumes of cheap disposable clothing they are given are also frequently bundled and resold to developing countries where they flood and destroy local markets. Downcycling—tearing up garments to form loose fibers that can be used for stuffing or insulation—is another solution. However, this process results in the loss of the labor, time, material, and energy that is invested in the creation of each piece. The goal of Past is to give new life to old pieces, keeping them out of the landfill and second-hand shop a little longer, and preserving the resources that have already been invested in them. In order to make this approach scalable and non-labor intensive, the proposal focuses on finding a garment that was common, reasonably consistent in features, and able to be altered with a few simple cuts. The answer was found in Jeans, which are a ubiquitous sign of the present. Using just 1 or 2 simple cuts, a simple pair of jeans can be transformed into a multitude of entirely new forms. This approach could be part of a company’s buy-back program or a simple DIY project through free patterns and instructions. <img width="5100" height="3300" width_o="5100" height_o="3300" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/caccf692591da6311527553b76f97bed23674ee741c1667e134b7cf1d2a09564/Past-SketchBook-Page-1.jpg" data-mid="147940179" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/caccf692591da6311527553b76f97bed23674ee741c1667e134b7cf1d2a09564/Past-SketchBook-Page-1.jpg" /> <img width="5100" height="3300" width_o="5100" height_o="3300" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/52cd3e6384c9851c8ca7a0692b0b519fe4866541727af4016f7cd920c2f7e529/Past-SketchBook-Page-4.jpg" data-mid="147940180" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/52cd3e6384c9851c8ca7a0692b0b519fe4866541727af4016f7cd920c2f7e529/Past-SketchBook-Page-4.jpg" /> Past sketches and drapes. <img width="2550" height="4200" width_o="2550" height_o="4200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8e30d6d06f1c426e0b771c2482b5daca85ab538a904a5f8673ccb15c6c8c4465/Jeans-Instructions.png" data-mid="147940017" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8e30d6d06f1c426e0b771c2482b5daca85ab538a904a5f8673ccb15c6c8c4465/Jeans-Instructions.png" /> <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/156bc2ca7c643aa3ebb0710a5beda5941640631e7bd8d4267eb7eab31b632938/TFF04618-min.JPG" data-mid="152999212" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/156bc2ca7c643aa3ebb0710a5beda5941640631e7bd8d4267eb7eab31b632938/TFF04618-min.JPG" /> <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5fb234f9ccad8067821d99894e6bc55784646aac47e850fcdc8faea0229d1453/TFF04668-min.JPG" data-mid="152999370" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5fb234f9ccad8067821d99894e6bc55784646aac47e850fcdc8faea0229d1453/TFF04668-min.JPG" /> <img width="2550" height="4200" width_o="2550" height_o="4200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1dd928436e70d59de0a76bb0511a454dbeaf61c6199fa175758fb0339f4f6bd9/Jeans-Instructions2.png" data-mid="147940018" border="0" data-scale="92" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1dd928436e70d59de0a76bb0511a454dbeaf61c6199fa175758fb0339f4f6bd9/Jeans-Instructions2.png" /> <img width="2550" height="4200" width_o="2550" height_o="4200" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8a05934d5864393bf6f77e8c9c3873d8ed5622f94da5963cfa620c16d5587d30/Jeans-Instructions3.png" data-mid="147940019" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8a05934d5864393bf6f77e8c9c3873d8ed5622f94da5963cfa620c16d5587d30/Jeans-Instructions3.png" /> <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4302d54dcbb74d43dd818fc53623cca502c4b3d5794d4bf8560be1124e72781b/TFF04857-min.JPG" data-mid="152999384" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4302d54dcbb74d43dd818fc53623cca502c4b3d5794d4bf8560be1124e72781b/TFF04857-min.JPG" /> PRESENT <img width="720" height="1080" width_o="720" height_o="1080" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f94d8f426a9015e3d76ca2103ee7198f89991e67f108dd3f204e3f11c3ef6270/3D-Clo-Designs-on-Backgrounds-1.jpg" data-mid="153000242" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/720/i/f94d8f426a9015e3d76ca2103ee7198f89991e67f108dd3f204e3f11c3ef6270/3D-Clo-Designs-on-Backgrounds-1.jpg" /> <img width="720" height="1080" width_o="720" height_o="1080" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2fc8c126fc36a912af2948d5b59357682388ad8da42786b327b6cfdd68675541/3D-Clo-Designs-on-Backgrounds-2.jpg" data-mid="145460147" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/720/i/2fc8c126fc36a912af2948d5b59357682388ad8da42786b327b6cfdd68675541/3D-Clo-Designs-on-Backgrounds-2.jpg" /> 3D models of dress demonstrating ties closure system for pockets and adjustable back.&nbsp; Present garments are meant to be more immediate solutions to the lifespan of our clothes and our current rate of consumption that require minimal systemic change.The proposals in this section largely revolve around garments that can transform into other garments and be styled in a multitude of different ways, challenging conventional notions of the forms our garments need to take. By making the garments more versatile, this extends the lifespan of the garments and cuts back on the urge to purchase more. The transformation and modification strategies utilize only ties made from the same fabric for fastenings. Ties were utilized as a means of making the garment adjustable to different sizes and configurations, meaning the garment can change with a person during their life and be worn over and under other garments. In addition, using no additional materials for fastenings, such as buttons or zippers, makes the garment easier to recycle at its eventual end of life. These garments were first designed with CLO, a 3D modeling software for apparel. Utilizing 3D modeling enables the creation of a first prototype of a garment with less waste production. These garments are also made from materials like Hemp, a fiber that grows prolifically and needs much less water than more traditional fiber crops like cotton. <img width="750" height="1500" width_o="750" height_o="1500" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f0d9dcc367706e541da24d5b47eee27c4ac0e26568588a27e925e9d8031cfba6/Look-1-Front-a.jpg" data-mid="150859281" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/750/i/f0d9dcc367706e541da24d5b47eee27c4ac0e26568588a27e925e9d8031cfba6/Look-1-Front-a.jpg" /> <img width="360" height="720" width_o="360" height_o="720" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d5d8d6f296813dd59e3a96c941e7905f7123683d284a49b1a170b41f36ec45c7/Look-1-Back-a.jpg" data-mid="150859279" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/360/i/d5d8d6f296813dd59e3a96c941e7905f7123683d284a49b1a170b41f36ec45c7/Look-1-Back-a.jpg" /> <img width="750" height="1500" width_o="750" height_o="1500" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/16a8e18162d75383af3304448000ea2d545b3fa6efc6d7b85daa7144c684ab1a/Look-1-Front-b.jpg" data-mid="150859282" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/750/i/16a8e18162d75383af3304448000ea2d545b3fa6efc6d7b85daa7144c684ab1a/Look-1-Front-b.jpg" /> <img width="750" height="1500" width_o="750" height_o="1500" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/89e5113a395a2362a632dc7dfbccc5c793fb18fa222098c82acc4980561eb96c/Look-1-Back-b.jpg" data-mid="150859280" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/750/i/89e5113a395a2362a632dc7dfbccc5c793fb18fa222098c82acc4980561eb96c/Look-1-Back-b.jpg" /> Muslin for transforming garment. 'Top' and 'bottom' are identical pieces. Right two images show the piece worn with the 'hem' as the neckline. Left two images show the piece worn with the 'waistline' as the neckline.’ <img width="750" height="1500" width_o="750" height_o="1500" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/cd585370e60c09204148706471f2a36a25ef19aeca165371bceec49b99cc3e25/Look-1-Pockets-Open.jpg" data-mid="150859284" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/750/i/cd585370e60c09204148706471f2a36a25ef19aeca165371bceec49b99cc3e25/Look-1-Pockets-Open.jpg" /> <img width="750" height="1500" width_o="750" height_o="1500" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/cff9c522f2c8079b9cfb17460fb3617e9329ea76bded03a857bc109269f8e397/Look-1-Pockets-Closed.jpg" data-mid="150859283" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/750/i/cff9c522f2c8079b9cfb17460fb3617e9329ea76bded03a857bc109269f8e397/Look-1-Pockets-Closed.jpg" /> Triangle panels on pieces function as pockets as well as sleeves. The pockets can be cinched closed with ties (center image). Video demonstrates ‘boottom’ to ‘top’ transformation.&nbsp; Animation of ‘top’ and ‘bottom’ done in CLO3D.&nbsp; <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/73c03dead51db210a360af82522d8dbec4522ac4eb06eebdc92ef7792f6cd2e8/TFF04748-min.JPG" data-mid="152999377" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/73c03dead51db210a360af82522d8dbec4522ac4eb06eebdc92ef7792f6cd2e8/TFF04748-min.JPG" /> <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3f824ab6baca3c942e50e0fd86a220b6c16be5b384d5cbe54e219128ec8f1ce9/TFF04749-min.JPG" data-mid="152999378" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3f824ab6baca3c942e50e0fd86a220b6c16be5b384d5cbe54e219128ec8f1ce9/TFF04749-min.JPG" /> <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/01743e314d975044d428f9e42d3662a064698dd8679447c217eeb956b5e31ada/TFF04791-min.JPG" data-mid="152999380" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/01743e314d975044d428f9e42d3662a064698dd8679447c217eeb956b5e31ada/TFF04791-min.JPG" /> Black transforming pieces worn as top and bottom. White transforming pieces worn as strapless dress and sleeved dress. FUTURE <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c7b080b823249a4cd678347669f74dc81df6ce7ae20bd5d17b24cec77d93a8d9/TFF04683-min.JPG" data-mid="152999373" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c7b080b823249a4cd678347669f74dc81df6ce7ae20bd5d17b24cec77d93a8d9/TFF04683-min.JPG" /> Future requires a fundamental rethinking of the current apparel system and thus operates on a longer timescale. These proposals largely center around biomaterials, with the focus of this collection being mycelium, the vegetative structure of a mushroom. The apparel industry produces a huge amount of textile waste. There is the post-consumer waste that is familiar to most people–the garments that fill landfills worldwide. But there are also large quantities of pre-consumer waste. Examples include cut-offs created during garment construction, headers and swatches provided to designers, and prototypes generated during the design process. As mentioned earlier, these end products are difficult to recycle because of the lack of infrastructure and a current absence of technology around recycling blended fibers. Mycelium is a potential solution to this problem, as it has the ability to break down almost any carbon-based material. Old garments and waste fabric scraps produced in the garment industry are upcycled into a new fabric by having the mycelium consume and bind the scraps together. The end product, dubbed Mycoweave, is a leather-like fabric that can be grown in different shapes and sizes. The process is circular because old Mycoweave can be upcycled by feeding it to a new batch of mycelium.See more about the process of Mycoweave. <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/abd3c6fd49a24a89c6f0803e55313f1ae5caeeded7bf1dfb266f863e6ade5f49/TFF04650-min.JPG" data-mid="152999369" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/abd3c6fd49a24a89c6f0803e55313f1ae5caeeded7bf1dfb266f863e6ade5f49/TFF04650-min.JPG" />Corset top assembled from Mycoweave Swatches. <img width="1920" height="2848" width_o="1920" height_o="2848" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7d4454790000c953778b0e40fd2c6fc6a142c43a67aef881bf2c3ce6e7614ebf/Mycelium-Print-1.jpg" data-mid="147946176" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7d4454790000c953778b0e40fd2c6fc6a142c43a67aef881bf2c3ce6e7614ebf/Mycelium-Print-1.jpg" /> Mycelium grown on fabric scraps. Grown for 4 weeks. Pressed while drying. Autoclaved for 45 minutes and plasticized with glycerine. <img width="1080" height="1920" width_o="1080" height_o="1920" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/aac2681bd4fd25376924e5487d2c49072d10a1b683c27cd0df235c1e2cfcac2d/Mycelium-Print-4.jpg" data-mid="147946177" border="0" data-scale="84" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/aac2681bd4fd25376924e5487d2c49072d10a1b683c27cd0df235c1e2cfcac2d/Mycelium-Print-4.jpg" /> Mycelium grown on fabric headers. Grown for 1 week. Pressed while drying. Baked for 30 minutes at 200 °F. Pressure cooked for 10 minutes and plasticized with glycerine. <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/35a442c4c817b71b0ce8b7ff019dc0a3d677a256023c5b3f04dbe428c5ec10eb/TFF04722-min.JPG" data-mid="152999374" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/35a442c4c817b71b0ce8b7ff019dc0a3d677a256023c5b3f04dbe428c5ec10eb/TFF04722-min.JPG" />Mycoweave Strapless Dress and Swatch Corset. PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/b72bb1204e19540b628a6751d073c94d35ee3ef2879219ba9818459b4933fb43/TFF04581-min.JPG" data-mid="152999362" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/b72bb1204e19540b628a6751d073c94d35ee3ef2879219ba9818459b4933fb43/TFF04581-min.JPG" /> Reimagining and reinventing the apparel industry of today is an enormous, but also exciting, challenge. It will require a huge number of ideas and innovations and collaboration across a variety of different disciplines and people. This collection is meant to serve as a beginning point, and hopefully inspiration, for the process of building a better tomorrow—where the clothes we love also love the earth and the people who made them. <img width="6000" height="4000" width_o="6000" height_o="4000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/82d09bc993d7bf0a89d507f975470bad49f4a3e839cd44e2c3fcea82566f2469/TFF04840-min.JPG" data-mid="152999812" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/82d09bc993d7bf0a89d507f975470bad49f4a3e839cd44e2c3fcea82566f2469/TFF04840-min.JPG" /> https://emiliakmann.com/The-Artemis-Collection Thu, 09 Jun 2022 04:08:35 +0000 Emilia K Mann https://emiliakmann.com/The-Artemis-Collection The Artemis Collection Summer 2020 remote design intern project for the NASA Soft Goods Lab, Johnson Space Center (JSC). <img width="3300" height="1986" width_o="3300" height_o="1986" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/722d13edb82e6d09c41b8d696d3dea58695b490794a9db838412d15d3e57e691/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation7-Cropped.png" data-mid="223870948" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/722d13edb82e6d09c41b8d696d3dea58695b490794a9db838412d15d3e57e691/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation7-Cropped.png" /> The Artemis Collection is a proposal for a series of garments to be worn by the crew of Artemis Missions II and III. The collection proposed was designed to optimize comfort and seamlessly incorporate additional utilities required for space travel. This project was completed as part of my remote internship at the NASA Johnson Space Center and later developed in my Fall 2021 RISD Course, “Pack You Bags, We’re Headed to the Moon” taught by Catherine Andreozzi. My research and final collection were informed by input from and presented to NASA Soft Goods Lab, NASA textile and space architecture engineers and designers, NASA critic and RISD professor Michael Lye, and NASA astronaut Don Pettit. To support my research I was awarded the Rhode Island Space Grant. Throughout the course of internship I devised and worked on 3 independent projects: The Artemis Collection, Microgravity Footwear, and the Artemis Wayfinder. Press related to the course: Hyperallergic: RISD Students Design Microgravity Socks &amp; Other Apparel for NASA Astronauts Surface Magazine: RISD students design space apparel that astronauts will wear on future missions. Artnet: Moonwalk on the Catwalk: See RISD Students’ Designs for the Clothes Astronauts Wear on NASA’s 2025 Lunar Mission Archinect: RISD students are helping NASA develop its Artemis mission uniforms for 2025 Design Criteria <img width="600" height="840" width_o="600" height_o="840" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f3859b21958a957e8106e374d255cd90db584f7c0a20ed82182af75d460d3d2d/Space-X-Flight-Suit.jpg" data-mid="145176669" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/f3859b21958a957e8106e374d255cd90db584f7c0a20ed82182af75d460d3d2d/Space-X-Flight-Suit.jpg" />SpaceX Flight Suit The garments proposed for the Artemis Mission needed to full-fill the following technical criteria in a visually impactful way: The Artemis Collection Shall: 1. Use materials that conform to exploration atmosphere safety standards. 2. Maximize the lifespan of each item of clothing. 3. Minimize the overall mass sent up into orbit. 4. Incorporate modifications that increase ease of dressing. 5. Increase the comfort of astronauts in the microgravity environment.6. Integrate RFID and radiation sensors. The Artemis Collection Should: 1. Integrate biomedical sensors: heart rate, carbon dioxide, temperature, and breathing rate. 2. Increase the comfort of astronauts: temperature fluctuation accommodations, pinch point relief, easy to use while sleeping or in the lavatory, etc. 3. Incorporate modifications that assist in holding tools/devices. 4. Accommodate a wide variety of body types. 5. Allow for individual customization of the garments. Research and Design Development <img width="1920" height="1484" width_o="1920" height_o="1484" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/83dc21cb8bc1eb4cf076b646045230e03a759d5b548c939a10a6d7eb10084b8b/Artemis-uniform-Zones-of-the-Body.jpg" data-mid="145176684" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/83dc21cb8bc1eb4cf076b646045230e03a759d5b548c939a10a6d7eb10084b8b/Artemis-uniform-Zones-of-the-Body.jpg" /> <img width="1920" height="1484" width_o="1920" height_o="1484" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/effee27f83644dcecec56b2808cbf3871feb29d3d2a6d5d79abacc5e7d90030f/Artemis-Uniform-Levels-of-A-Garment.jpg" data-mid="145176674" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/effee27f83644dcecec56b2808cbf3871feb29d3d2a6d5d79abacc5e7d90030f/Artemis-Uniform-Levels-of-A-Garment.jpg" /> <img width="1920" height="1242" width_o="1920" height_o="1242" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/fed34cafdf853aaa44a1c936047903d705c29e3f72de49f2e50ef399820cb53b/Artemis-Uniform-Research.jpg" data-mid="145176683" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/fed34cafdf853aaa44a1c936047903d705c29e3f72de49f2e50ef399820cb53b/Artemis-Uniform-Research.jpg" /> Research produced through consultation with textile, space architecutre, and electrical engineers working for NASA. <img width="1920" height="1242" width_o="1920" height_o="1242" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/880619c8469e5b78f44e033637d0de2958dd739b075c3938980a6714f68f486f/Artemis-Uniform-Design-Development.jpg" data-mid="145176673" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/880619c8469e5b78f44e033637d0de2958dd739b075c3938980a6714f68f486f/Artemis-Uniform-Design-Development.jpg" /> Design inspriation derived from sources as varied as the original apparel strategies employed on the Apollo missions to accessible clothing designs. Final Solution <img width="3300" height="1995" width_o="3300" height_o="1995" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2e0515662cd5f532be994098e615e17d328885660a0fa5826ef215c32fb14486/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation2-Cropped.png" data-mid="144960792" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2e0515662cd5f532be994098e615e17d328885660a0fa5826ef215c32fb14486/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation2-Cropped.png" /> The final design is the result of deep research around movement of the body and the unique challenges astronauts face. The design employs color blocking and graphic shapes for functional reasons (for example darker colors in areas where sweat may show) and for the visual purpose of creating a bold, strong image. The final design can also be converted to one with shortened sleeves and pant legs via removable forearm and calf pieces. I also designed a tool belt that works seamlessly with the everyday garment and allows for easy organization and storage of tools. In addition to this everyday garment I presented an exercise garment as well as an optional undergarment design. Both garments utilize some of the same s trategies applied to the everyday garment. <img width="3300" height="2294" width_o="3300" height_o="2294" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7818bceb4d9d849b916740890ee6a30baff801751f46ab0006f8b3a91360fe0f/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation4-Cropped.png" data-mid="144960794" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7818bceb4d9d849b916740890ee6a30baff801751f46ab0006f8b3a91360fe0f/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation4-Cropped.png" /> <img width="3300" height="2301" width_o="3300" height_o="2301" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d82bc7cef91767d2e7b01541ad47678fcb1f1ef85af97548e72adf6a34200552/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation3-Cropped.png" data-mid="144960793" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d82bc7cef91767d2e7b01541ad47678fcb1f1ef85af97548e72adf6a34200552/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation3-Cropped.png" /> <img width="3300" height="2291" width_o="3300" height_o="2291" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8e92393e0c990816c594375e1b89e773237e7ad873db899a0d37749611af88cd/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation5-Cropped.png" data-mid="144960795" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8e92393e0c990816c594375e1b89e773237e7ad873db899a0d37749611af88cd/Artemis-Uniform-Presentation-Headed-to-the-Moon-Final-Presentation5-Cropped.png" /> <img width="3300" height="1805" width_o="3300" height_o="1805" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a7e1a19588632e5e6c78e75e7fefe369439433e4a30f93c73fb338bbf34f43fe/Artemis-Uniform-Athletic.png" data-mid="144960783" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a7e1a19588632e5e6c78e75e7fefe369439433e4a30f93c73fb338bbf34f43fe/Artemis-Uniform-Athletic.png" /> Proposed exercise garment <img width="3300" height="1741" width_o="3300" height_o="1741" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0368efc0454f1c4e3486683ba0c971698b6256a1dbfd81f9094a5230ad0bbbdf/Artemis-Uniform-Optional-Undergarment.-png.png" data-mid="144960790" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0368efc0454f1c4e3486683ba0c971698b6256a1dbfd81f9094a5230ad0bbbdf/Artemis-Uniform-Optional-Undergarment.-png.png" /> Proposed optional undergarment VR simulations aboard the ISS and next to the Orion Space Capsule.&nbsp; https://emiliakmann.com/Drowning-in-Geometry Thu, 09 Jun 2022 05:04:14 +0000 Emilia K Mann https://emiliakmann.com/Drowning-in-Geometry Drowning in GeometryFall 2018 Studio Project. <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2d7fa08a3eae4bf820cb7b13071925486e6126fdd5f16279964d8b1d53e25dba/Drowning-In-Gemoetry-Front.jpg" data-mid="144962968" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/2d7fa08a3eae4bf820cb7b13071925486e6126fdd5f16279964d8b1d53e25dba/Drowning-In-Gemoetry-Front.jpg" /> <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/87cd222a3aadf1b93cfe6fdffe15c9dc59ad656cb0c5c75b1c40a2226e581e29/Drowning-In-Gemoetry-Back.jpg" data-mid="144962967" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/87cd222a3aadf1b93cfe6fdffe15c9dc59ad656cb0c5c75b1c40a2226e581e29/Drowning-In-Gemoetry-Back.jpg" /> Model: Kalyani Kastor (check out her work here) Prompted to "redefine form" this project explores the interaction that results from the imposition of an abstract geometric shape upon the organic human form. It also questions what can be defined as a "shirt" or "skirt" as the abstract geometric shape can be untied and retied in various configurations in order to function as either of these items, thus enabling the user define their own "form". -- Exhibited in Parallels, the 11th Annual Brown|RISD Dual Degree Exhibition January 24th, 2019-February 17th 2019 <img width="1920" height="3315" width_o="1920" height_o="3315" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a2d8f3c3b1a75dd230d04f1278760362178bcb040be5072dba75b2de18972e32/Drowning-in-Geometry-Exhibition.jpg" data-mid="144962974" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/a2d8f3c3b1a75dd230d04f1278760362178bcb040be5072dba75b2de18972e32/Drowning-in-Geometry-Exhibition.jpg" /> <img width="1920" height="506" width_o="1920" height_o="506" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/3bcb576854646fd50aed0f1783adde6172e58a38600e78af451fd35ec4f39640/Drowning-in-Geometry-Detail1.jpg" data-mid="144962972" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/3bcb576854646fd50aed0f1783adde6172e58a38600e78af451fd35ec4f39640/Drowning-in-Geometry-Detail1.jpg" /> <img width="1200" height="800" width_o="1200" height_o="800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/edcd40e9f4121adebe5267333e5f9d384608f42f486b163119dc38e92bb0ebb1/Drowning-in-Geometry-Detail2.jpg" data-mid="144962973" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/edcd40e9f4121adebe5267333e5f9d384608f42f486b163119dc38e92bb0ebb1/Drowning-in-Geometry-Detail2.jpg" /><img width="1200" height="2160" width_o="1200" height_o="2160" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/2e439f0d0cfd6007f742454fec35673955fc219e5888a6a172928d3e698e3a91/Drowning-In-Geometry-Standing-1.jpg" data-mid="144962978" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/2e439f0d0cfd6007f742454fec35673955fc219e5888a6a172928d3e698e3a91/Drowning-In-Geometry-Standing-1.jpg" /> <img width="1200" height="800" width_o="1200" height_o="800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/edeb6b1facd37d4efb04cd297050ea711c951395bcdc16e14685657a1d7a6726/Drowning-in-Geometry-Detail-3.jpg" data-mid="144962971" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/edeb6b1facd37d4efb04cd297050ea711c951395bcdc16e14685657a1d7a6726/Drowning-in-Geometry-Detail-3.jpg" /><img width="1200" height="2160" width_o="1200" height_o="2160" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c69b05ae0e520d782b5d49c3263f77e88b4f3a2381e177e33df1d591ccff6e49/Drowning-in-Geometry-Standing-2.jpg" data-mid="144962979" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c69b05ae0e520d782b5d49c3263f77e88b4f3a2381e177e33df1d591ccff6e49/Drowning-in-Geometry-Standing-2.jpg" /> This project began with exploring the architecture of Zaha Hadid and Santiago Calatrava, as examples of organic--yet fundamentally geometric--forms interacting with the natural environment. It then shifted to understanding different techniques designers, such as Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake, Iris Van Herpen, and Junya Watanabe, use to express sculptural or geometric concepts&nbsp;on the human body. The study that resulted in the final design pictured above was the&nbsp;deconstruction of American painter Frank Stella's black and white paintings into geometric forms that were then rearranged and placed on a human form. One of these shapes was selected and rotated to discover the different ways the same shape could be "worn" as a "shirt" or a "skirt" with the aid of a tying mechanism. The ability for shape to be worn as both a "shirt" and a "skirt" was further explored during the creation of the first muslin mock up. The fabrication technique of pleating the material was also developed through experimentation with the muslin. <img width="1920" height="960" width_o="1920" height_o="960" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/aceca54ca77c6cb6b75604b6d6e68adb7c9d0f280e1c4e492710a14542fa5709/Drowning-in-Geometry-Sketchbook-1.jpg" data-mid="144962976" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/aceca54ca77c6cb6b75604b6d6e68adb7c9d0f280e1c4e492710a14542fa5709/Drowning-in-Geometry-Sketchbook-1.jpg" /> <img width="1920" height="1280" width_o="1920" height_o="1280" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c58f4f9abbea80511115357de9a6d09ff25e806eb8b7fedf79f8714347c4c35a/Drowning-in-Geometry-Sketchbook-2.jpg" data-mid="144962977" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c58f4f9abbea80511115357de9a6d09ff25e806eb8b7fedf79f8714347c4c35a/Drowning-in-Geometry-Sketchbook-2.jpg" /> Select Sketchbook Images <img width="1920" height="1126" width_o="1920" height_o="1126" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4c38cfcfa76e923d5d10f304de4e4443d471206b820e3fdd02a41eb2cfb94d8b/Drowning-in-Gemoetry-Proposed-Lineup.jpg" data-mid="144962970" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4c38cfcfa76e923d5d10f304de4e4443d471206b820e3fdd02a41eb2cfb94d8b/Drowning-in-Gemoetry-Proposed-Lineup.jpg" /> Proposed Collection. <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a5c9d5981ea80309de16a8bc88c75f9cfe965770ef838aad05710eb9c589cab4/Muslin-1.jpg" data-mid="144962980" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/a5c9d5981ea80309de16a8bc88c75f9cfe965770ef838aad05710eb9c589cab4/Muslin-1.jpg" /> <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/172f756a04e66016429f07d77712d7f7ef1b0d6e10ab1549bd65e4f30074952f/Muslin-2.jpg" data-mid="144962981" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/172f756a04e66016429f07d77712d7f7ef1b0d6e10ab1549bd65e4f30074952f/Muslin-2.jpg" /> <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a022994e718586c5b426fa9bf5506f3e5d56e906189bd99da5fa12a8844e707b/Muslin-3.jpg" data-mid="144962982" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/a022994e718586c5b426fa9bf5506f3e5d56e906189bd99da5fa12a8844e707b/Muslin-3.jpg" /> Initial Prototypes <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/330a4897226dad79e25678df238f20d26c390a2fc897200cc1d22fde2a22f877/Muslin-4.jpg" data-mid="144962983" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/330a4897226dad79e25678df238f20d26c390a2fc897200cc1d22fde2a22f877/Muslin-4.jpg" /> <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/582aef9dd6b8d48304b4a78f65be8ea56fba70cf64e80fe6ba8139401766c284/Muslin-5.jpg" data-mid="144962984" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/582aef9dd6b8d48304b4a78f65be8ea56fba70cf64e80fe6ba8139401766c284/Muslin-5.jpg" /> <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1151929c1906c487198c00b375748775b61e3c475683d0e6b88d6bef03955905/Muslin-6.jpg" data-mid="144962985" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/1151929c1906c487198c00b375748775b61e3c475683d0e6b88d6bef03955905/Muslin-6.jpg" /> <img width="600" height="900" width_o="600" height_o="900" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/39136b00a183a3bd55ff504c9c72a727bfe0d72cf9caa8a6282aa1ea04556dfd/Muslin-7.jpg" data-mid="144962986" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/39136b00a183a3bd55ff504c9c72a727bfe0d72cf9caa8a6282aa1ea04556dfd/Muslin-7.jpg" /> Variations on the Skirt https://emiliakmann.com/MYCOweave Sat, 11 Jun 2022 16:29:50 +0000 Emilia K Mann https://emiliakmann.com/MYCOweave MYCOweave <img width="1920" height="2848" width_o="1920" height_o="2848" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ea2b01696c69e728bcb413deef338e249a315db8afc63149fc6ceda5247fda87/Mycelium-Print-1.jpg" data-mid="145556834" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ea2b01696c69e728bcb413deef338e249a315db8afc63149fc6ceda5247fda87/Mycelium-Print-1.jpg" /> <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e5ec9a0315fa4f5a192b4cd383647c3a11c2c928898e17e0ca242f0138571224/PXL_20220120_211436235.jpg" data-mid="147949229" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e5ec9a0315fa4f5a192b4cd383647c3a11c2c928898e17e0ca242f0138571224/PXL_20220120_211436235.jpg" /> Upclose image of a sample of Mycoweave. Mycoweave proposes mycelium, the vegetative structure of mushrooms, as one solution to the textile waste generated in the fashion industry by non-recyclable blended fibers. Mycelium has the ability to break down almost any carbon-based material. This means non-recyclable textile waste that has at least one carbon based fiber can be upcycled into a new fabric by having the mycelium consume and bind the scraps together. The end product has a painterly look and leather-like properties. The material can be grown in different shapes and sizes. The process is circular as old material can be consumed by a new batch of mycelium. -- Longlisted for a 2022 Dezeen Design Award in the wearable and sustainable design categories.&nbsp; THE CONCEPT <img width="1600" height="1188" width_o="1600" height_o="1188" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/4324bbb6bd405442944cb3e029dac1a11d7d09ccd148a2f908de2ade112a3641/Mycelium-Coffee-Grounds.png" data-mid="147948184" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/4324bbb6bd405442944cb3e029dac1a11d7d09ccd148a2f908de2ade112a3641/Mycelium-Coffee-Grounds.png" />Mycelium growing on coffee grounds. Mycelium is the part of the mushroom that is found underground. It forms a network of fungal threads, composed of long tubular cells called hyphae. Mycelium plays a key role in our ecosystems, breaking down organic material into raw material that can be used again. It is estimated that every second, a garbage truck's worth of clothing is burnt or buried in a landfill. Only 13% of textiles from the apparel industry get recycled. One cause of this low rate of recycling is our current inability to recycle blended textiles. Different types of fibers must be segregated and treated separately and there is currently no commercially available or consistent way to do this mechanically or chemically. <img width="2048" height="1536" width_o="2048" height_o="1536" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f667043c7eb34df9d7670e74a94fe0d5e4a6d5b20dcc291c2507d7c4fbbca4cd/Atacama-Desert.jpg" data-mid="147948246" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f667043c7eb34df9d7670e74a94fe0d5e4a6d5b20dcc291c2507d7c4fbbca4cd/Atacama-Desert.jpg" /> Atacama desert, Chile, which has become a destination for garment disposal for the fast fashion industry. Photographed by Argentine journalist Jason Mayne. <img width="2790" height="2790" width_o="2790" height_o="2790" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/981ed3869a8e85cdf4f23cbaa7f2124758640988869e824112571f0bf133d209/Mycelium-Blended-Fibers-Samples.jpg" data-mid="147948579" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/981ed3869a8e85cdf4f23cbaa7f2124758640988869e824112571f0bf133d209/Mycelium-Blended-Fibers-Samples.jpg" /> At the same time, many of the fibers in blended fabrics, such as wool and cotton, are proteins and carbohydrates that contain carbon as a core component. Because mycelium, the vegetative structure of the mushroom, can break down almost any carbon-based material, I believe that a mycelium-based process can be a solution to this blended-textile waste. In this proposed process, old garments and waste fabric scraps, particularly those composed of blended fibers, are upcycled into a new fabric (Mycoweave) by having the mycelium consume and bind the scraps together. <img width="2754" height="2766" width_o="2754" height_o="2766" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7bca02a1cda52d1762cac99039667f60133a48cf32572ec1ba162abe6c7326d6/4-types-Mycelium.png" data-mid="147948624" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7bca02a1cda52d1762cac99039667f60133a48cf32572ec1ba162abe6c7326d6/4-types-Mycelium.png" /> THE PROCESS Mycoweave is created by first sterilizing the fabric scraps and then inoculating them with mycelium. The inoculated fabrics are then placed in a mold and left to grow for 2-3 weeks. After 2-3 weeks of growth, the mycelium fabric is removed from the mold. The new Mycoweave material is processed by pressing the material and allowing it to dry, which halts the growth of the mycelium. <img width="2764" height="2765" width_o="2764" height_o="2765" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/f922bcb962c3f5100887f2aa5d151ea724ce5c97fc02b21d8a38672d3ee4f093/Mycelium-Fabric-Scraps-2.jpg" data-mid="147949220" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/f922bcb962c3f5100887f2aa5d151ea724ce5c97fc02b21d8a38672d3ee4f093/Mycelium-Fabric-Scraps-2.jpg" /> <img width="2388" height="2389" width_o="2388" height_o="2389" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/bcd035012a1f80521f64a45a988c57d8bd4c5d2df1c063b8f2d0802408d3c70b/Mycelium-Fabric-Scraps-1.jpg" data-mid="147949219" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/bcd035012a1f80521f64a45a988c57d8bd4c5d2df1c063b8f2d0802408d3c70b/Mycelium-Fabric-Scraps-1.jpg" /> <img width="2623" height="2624" width_o="2623" height_o="2624" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/63b8a48794ea486417bf3ae2826b2e3a7f562d5cae43c1b6a842846935b08c98/PXL_20220429_0206051632.jpg" data-mid="147949571" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/63b8a48794ea486417bf3ae2826b2e3a7f562d5cae43c1b6a842846935b08c98/PXL_20220429_0206051632.jpg" /> Once dried, the material is plasticized with glycerol (vegetable oil) and cooked in order to kill the mycelium. The end product has a supple, leather-like quality. While the material is leather-like in regards to its feel and drape, Mycoweave is a unique material with interesting properties of its own. The colors and textures of the original fibers consumed are preserved to varying degrees, depending on how long the mycelium is grown, giving Mycoweave a unique painterly appearance. <img width="1920" height="2998" width_o="1920" height_o="2998" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8d639ca7fcbdf422dc49afe5a90654e76195b61d40ccdb03308426d7b5575148/Mycelium-Print-2.jpg" data-mid="145556835" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/8d639ca7fcbdf422dc49afe5a90654e76195b61d40ccdb03308426d7b5575148/Mycelium-Print-2.jpg" /><img width="1920" height="2933" width_o="1920" height_o="2933" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/fe0b85720dc91a526d6e6667bccf806a35ced57432bb73581284f3c3d88e72f4/Mycelium-Print-4.jpg" data-mid="147950778" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/fe0b85720dc91a526d6e6667bccf806a35ced57432bb73581284f3c3d88e72f4/Mycelium-Print-4.jpg" /> <img width="1920" height="2933" width_o="1920" height_o="2933" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/be68802313c3a26eb0b42e182ad23a3d1f30c979682430f71690b23fe6fcf396/Mycelium-Print-3.jpg" data-mid="145556836" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/be68802313c3a26eb0b42e182ad23a3d1f30c979682430f71690b23fe6fcf396/Mycelium-Print-3.jpg" /> <img width="1920" height="2933" width_o="1920" height_o="2933" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/ceba4046ebfb004d9345e75a111dc32e813bf2a49eecd69f1ec547d8e7bd0c1a/Mycelium-Print-6.jpg" data-mid="147950825" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/ceba4046ebfb004d9345e75a111dc32e813bf2a49eecd69f1ec547d8e7bd0c1a/Mycelium-Print-6.jpg" /> Upclose images of varations of Mycoweave. In addition, unlike traditional leather, the fabric can be grown in different shapes and sizes, opening up the possibility of growing the fabric into a garment pattern or even in a three-dimensional form. Thus, in addition to offering a solution to textile waste, Mycoweave opens up new design, aesthtic, and construction possibilities. <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/69ae693fe22dca5f6563f5b32e62d8dc6a104b070b949f2af2ca38b82bbcc90c/Mycoweave-Jacket-Back-Test.jpg" data-mid="147949224" border="0" data-scale="98" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/69ae693fe22dca5f6563f5b32e62d8dc6a104b070b949f2af2ca38b82bbcc90c/Mycoweave-Jacket-Back-Test.jpg" /> <img width="2550" height="3300" width_o="2550" height_o="3300" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/7b512fa28b2cb7b38b78afdfd8a7faa72bfc62c84def65bddadead840d821fed/Mycoweave-Jacket-Render.jpg" data-mid="147949225" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/7b512fa28b2cb7b38b78afdfd8a7faa72bfc62c84def65bddadead840d821fed/Mycoweave-Jacket-Render.jpg" /> <img width="3024" height="4032" width_o="3024" height_o="4032" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5a62b387d9ff632686abe9956f0bc1dd60179530d21cbaa7c4b3d604440da37a/Mycoweave-Jacket-Test.jpg" data-mid="147949227" border="0" data-scale="98" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/5a62b387d9ff632686abe9956f0bc1dd60179530d21cbaa7c4b3d604440da37a/Mycoweave-Jacket-Test.jpg" /> The process of creating Mycoweave is circular because old Mycoweave can be upcycled by feeding it to a new batch of mycelium. <img width="2000" height="3000" width_o="2000" height_o="3000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/13b030dc94bcea221dd07a506d879ec4469ae67f0d579f9105a3dd44f6cb69b4/Cover-Image.jpg" data-mid="147951235" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/13b030dc94bcea221dd07a506d879ec4469ae67f0d579f9105a3dd44f6cb69b4/Cover-Image.jpg" /> <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e98438b38d3ed4c372ea6fc0587c7aef752839a7f950a45f60eaeed901399b46/TFF04628-min.JPG" data-mid="152999874" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/e98438b38d3ed4c372ea6fc0587c7aef752839a7f950a45f60eaeed901399b46/TFF04628-min.JPG" /> <img width="4000" height="6000" width_o="4000" height_o="6000" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/26829b341a066fbbac63e1823bc6891283b4f98ada303eee1103a10267e22a95/TFF04681-min.JPG" data-mid="152999880" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/26829b341a066fbbac63e1823bc6891283b4f98ada303eee1103a10267e22a95/TFF04681-min.JPG" /> https://emiliakmann.com/MYCO-for-Mars Fri, 10 Jun 2022 21:59:18 +0000 Emilia K Mann https://emiliakmann.com/MYCO-for-Mars MYCO for Mars Summer 2018 synthetic biology intern project at NASA Ames. <img width="1500" height="815" width_o="1500" height_o="815" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/37d66769fe6abefba47d1107d6328e05db316ece1267d5a91361c406d8f3fda9/Redhouse-Studio.jpg" data-mid="145134152" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/37d66769fe6abefba47d1107d6328e05db316ece1267d5a91361c406d8f3fda9/Redhouse-Studio.jpg" /> Rendering of proposed habitat by our collaborator, redhouse studio “Science fiction often imagines our future on Mars and other planets as run by machines, with metallic cities and flying cars rising above dunes of red sand...But the reality may be even stranger.” - NASA to Popular Mechanics&nbsp;on its MYCO-Architecture Program During the Summer of 2018, I conducted synthetic biology research at the NASA Ames Research Center with Professor Rothschild as a part of the Stanford-Brown-RISD iGEM Team. Our research, detailed below, was on the development of affordable, light-weight, and sustainable human habitats for Mars and the Moon through the use of fungal mycelium. My areas of focus were the development&nbsp;of&nbsp;the mycelium based material,&nbsp;mission architecture, and&nbsp;potential applications on Earth.We presented our work at the 2018 NASA Innovative Advanced Concepts (NIAC) Symposium and the 2018 international genetically engineered machine (iGEM) competition. At the competition, the project was nominated for best new composite part and best manufacturing project. To support my research I was awarded the Rhode Island Space Grant and Brown Undergraduate Teaching and Research Award (UTRA).Our work has been featured in CNET, Popular Mechanics, and SPACE. How will humans live on Mars? <img width="1920" height="1244" width_o="1920" height_o="1244" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d7e163471164785f055ed88050f30bfd07c81773eaa427839a18200f4c3b8a42/Mars-Ice-Habitats.jpg" data-mid="145134136" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d7e163471164785f055ed88050f30bfd07c81773eaa427839a18200f4c3b8a42/Mars-Ice-Habitats.jpg" /> Mars Ice Habitats by Space Exploration Architecture and Clouds Architecture Office of New York for NASA’s 3D-Printed Habitat Challenge The human exploration of Mars has been one of NASA's goals for years--with proposed expeditions within the next decade. However, there is a fundamental question that needs to be answered first: how will humans live on Mars? A visit to Mars could last months to years. Therefore, the habitat must be able to maintain the long-term physical and mental well-being of the astronauts and survive the extreme environment of Mars Perliminary Research&nbsp; To answer some of our primary questions about what the design of a human mission to Mars we interviewed Dr. Michael Meyer, the lead scientist of NASA’s Mars Exploration Program, Dr. Lisa Pratt, NASA’s planetary protection officer, and Amy Kronenberg, Biophysicist Staff Scientist at the U.S. Department of Energy Lawrence Berkeley Labs and member of the NASA Innovative Advanced Concepts advisory board. <img width="1492" height="1110" width_o="1492" height_o="1110" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c7bbf8dead2e81255669217fdcc5d9e84b461d8763dcc5b5df14c5a713ad9436/Dr.Michael-Meyer.png" data-mid="145134134" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/c7bbf8dead2e81255669217fdcc5d9e84b461d8763dcc5b5df14c5a713ad9436/Dr.Michael-Meyer.png" /> Team Members Emilia Mann, Leo Penny, and Javier Syquia meeting with Dr.Michael Meyer The Project Proposal&nbsp; Our team realized that in addition to making the habitat comfortable and durable&nbsp;we&nbsp;had to consider how our habitat would be transported to Mars. Transportation of material through space is a basic yet fundamental component of many of NASA’s objectives. Whether this material is equipment needed to test for life on Mars or the structures that allow for prolonged habitation, it must travel from earth to its celestial destination, thus incurring great economic and energy costs. But, what if it didn’t have to be transported from earth? What if it could be grown on planet? Based on this concept, our team proposed we&nbsp;explore the use of&nbsp;fungal mycelium&nbsp;as a light-weight, durable material that could be grown on site&nbsp;using spores to create habitats and other necessary items. <img width="961" height="769" width_o="961" height_o="769" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/591683ae5ac00b3552f34f5b8c927131d7d2f5ffc139f9de55f280aa1fb7a7a1/Microscopic-Image-of-G.lucidum.jpeg" data-mid="145134137" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/961/i/591683ae5ac00b3552f34f5b8c927131d7d2f5ffc139f9de55f280aa1fb7a7a1/Microscopic-Image-of-G.lucidum.jpeg" /> Microscopic image of G. lucidum&nbsp;mycelium, taken by team member Leo Penny and advisor Lynn Rothschild. Mycelium is the vegetative structure of a fungus and is analogous to the root system of most plants. As it seeks out nutrients in a substrate it branches out, filling in the gaps of the material. We initially gravitated towards using mycelium as the core material in the design of our habitat for Mars and the Moon because of its self-perpetuating property--given a substrate it can grow into the shape of any mold it is placed in. Our idea was that we would send up lightweight, inflatable structure that would act as the mold for the mycelium. The structure would be built with three layers. The outer layer would hold water sourced from subsurface ice water at our landing site. The function of this layer is to provide temperature insulation and radiation protection.&nbsp; The middle layer would hold the substrate the mycelium&nbsp;would bind to.&nbsp; The inner&nbsp;layer&nbsp;is designed to hold the mycelium, which provides the structural integrity and additional radiation protection for the habitat. <img width="1920" height="760" width_o="1920" height_o="760" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/1f8142793efc81b3efdda889be4f4a0d1653130277c1271224ddcbe6559d09dc/Redhouse-Studio-Assembly.jpg" data-mid="145134151" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/1f8142793efc81b3efdda889be4f4a0d1653130277c1271224ddcbe6559d09dc/Redhouse-Studio-Assembly.jpg" /> Diagram by our collaborator, redhouse studio Material Development To demonstrate the potential for using mycelium to grow materials and structures both on and off planet, we tested the growth of mycelium on a variety of different substrates. The mycelium successfully grew on Martian and Lunar regolith stimulant with minimal nutrients added in the form of PDY (Potato-Dextrose-Yeast) solution. Other noteworthy substrates with exceptional material and environmental promise for terrestrial applications&nbsp;are yard waste, sawdust, used ground coffee beans, and other forms of food waste. <img width="1920" height="1280" width_o="1920" height_o="1280" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/cb1f2975dc92a1bba8fb9e729fc6ac6a1b320a92f51607018afd7da0711718b0/Mycelium-Martian-Regolith.jpg" data-mid="145134141" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/cb1f2975dc92a1bba8fb9e729fc6ac6a1b320a92f51607018afd7da0711718b0/Mycelium-Martian-Regolith.jpg" /> Mycelium growing on Martian regolith and PDY <img width="1920" height="2400" width_o="1920" height_o="2400" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/346225e769b201caa62911140e9128e384c45c169781e691f574af0cc7e298a4/Mycelium-Lunar-Regolith.jpg" data-mid="145134140" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/346225e769b201caa62911140e9128e384c45c169781e691f574af0cc7e298a4/Mycelium-Lunar-Regolith.jpg" /> Mycelium growing on Lunar regolith and PDY Mycelium growing on quinoa flakes <img width="968" height="1198" width_o="968" height_o="1198" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/219783c259c214bace25c0cf136f91b2b62852bee89ea9dd1af50ec77be342e5/Mycelium-Quinoa-Flakes.png" data-mid="145134142" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/968/i/219783c259c214bace25c0cf136f91b2b62852bee89ea9dd1af50ec77be342e5/Mycelium-Quinoa-Flakes.png" /> Mycelium growing on quinoa flakes <img width="1600" height="1188" width_o="1600" height_o="1188" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/d4076cb34bdb5095d45ea680a1688cc6b379431ee198bdff8f8e4027e9e10473/Mycelium-Coffee-Grounds.png" data-mid="145134139" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/d4076cb34bdb5095d45ea680a1688cc6b379431ee198bdff8f8e4027e9e10473/Mycelium-Coffee-Grounds.png" />Mycelium grown on used coffee grounds. Structural Development To demonstrate the ability of mycelium to form structures by binding substrates together we grew a variety of bricks and a stool from wood-chips and yard waste from the NASA base. These materials were grown using protocols for sterility&nbsp;developed from our initial material studies as well as tests we ran on ideal growth conditions. <img width="1599" height="1120" width_o="1599" height_o="1120" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0b45f349a38de0c2990671f2602cfb80cd3334d087ffd91a4afe6a03f976a6e4/Mycelium-Woodchips.png" data-mid="145134150" border="0" data-scale="90" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/0b45f349a38de0c2990671f2602cfb80cd3334d087ffd91a4afe6a03f976a6e4/Mycelium-Woodchips.png" /> Mycelium spores growing on woodchips <img width="1200" height="762" width_o="1200" height_o="762" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/959a25c376f0418e9819be00978b23675e778fa8961b78815ce5f69466853016/Mycelium-Bricks.png" data-mid="145134138" border="0" data-scale="100" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/959a25c376f0418e9819be00978b23675e778fa8961b78815ce5f69466853016/Mycelium-Bricks.png" /> Pile of bricks produced with mycelium and yard waste, wood chips <img width="600" height="800" width_o="600" height_o="800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/e9daf26df1445bf86253dc080c62b0cb434753ec80530d05f3ec46353ee218f9/Mycelium-Stool-1.jpeg" data-mid="145134143" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/e9daf26df1445bf86253dc080c62b0cb434753ec80530d05f3ec46353ee218f9/Mycelium-Stool-1.jpeg" /><img width="600" height="800" width_o="600" height_o="800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/25865fd5f30db823206689fb255435ce635025121c55a7824e71930bbf53624a/Mycelium-Stool-5.jpeg" data-mid="145134147" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/25865fd5f30db823206689fb255435ce635025121c55a7824e71930bbf53624a/Mycelium-Stool-5.jpeg" /> <img width="600" height="792" width_o="600" height_o="792" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/0101dc5d232439e2d31ff276addb6e279c94c12a211a3d0aacd5984fee047b9f/Mycelium-Stool-2.jpeg" data-mid="145134144" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/0101dc5d232439e2d31ff276addb6e279c94c12a211a3d0aacd5984fee047b9f/Mycelium-Stool-2.jpeg" /><img width="600" height="800" width_o="600" height_o="800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/5c7c4922d99c6c8860beb3ea9c33c041d4ff2d4b05509fb3ce2f41c70db99ac9/Mycelium-Stool-6.jpeg" data-mid="145134148" border="0" data-scale="100" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/5c7c4922d99c6c8860beb3ea9c33c041d4ff2d4b05509fb3ce2f41c70db99ac9/Mycelium-Stool-6.jpeg" /> <img width="600" height="804" width_o="600" height_o="804" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/a3771c4a7b489c847fb292a0d929750a4e2044c72fc55ae925575625879b9982/Mycelium-Stool-3.jpeg" data-mid="145134145" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/a3771c4a7b489c847fb292a0d929750a4e2044c72fc55ae925575625879b9982/Mycelium-Stool-3.jpeg" /><img width="600" height="800" width_o="600" height_o="800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/c4021f973bb799a454ec8293765b170832ad61e77d2b8121f5faf0416549994d/Mycelium-Stool-7.jpeg" data-mid="145134149" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/c4021f973bb799a454ec8293765b170832ad61e77d2b8121f5faf0416549994d/Mycelium-Stool-7.jpeg" /> <img width="600" height="811" width_o="600" height_o="811" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/fe21038f071412f58b9011cb2bf4202d39efe9287970e6733515dbd1e36d939d/Mycelium-Stool-4.jpeg" data-mid="145134146" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/fe21038f071412f58b9011cb2bf4202d39efe9287970e6733515dbd1e36d939d/Mycelium-Stool-4.jpeg" /><img width="600" height="800" width_o="600" height_o="800" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/8ae39736c78df0874787b3197ff6417678bf1ca78577ba3ea31f0d60e9e6f056/Mycelium-Stool-8.jpeg" data-mid="145134830" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/600/i/8ae39736c78df0874787b3197ff6417678bf1ca78577ba3ea31f0d60e9e6f056/Mycelium-Stool-8.jpeg" /> Process of growing Mycelium based stool with yardwaste as the substrate Applications on Earth&nbsp; As our research progressed and we spoke to more experts working with mycelium, such as Phil Ross (founder of MycoWorks) and Eben Bayer ( one of the co-founders of Ecovative), it became clear to us that mycelium has the potential to revolutionize product manufacturing on earth by introducing a completely biodegradable material that is also self-growing. These key characteristics will allow manufactures to cut back on the cost, time, energy, and environmental impact involved with traditional production methods. And the ability of manipulate the mechanical properties of the materials ensures that mycelium could be used as a substitute for a variety of products--from furniture to clothing to medical devices. In response to this exciting realization we began exploring the ways mycelium could be used to create other products that might be necessary for our habitat--ranging from furniture, to scientific instruments, to a filtration system, to even a Rover chassis. We even generated some designs and prototypes for a few of these ideas, fully flushing out the idea of an entire living space created from one material. For a more detailed report on our project please visit our website by clicking the button&nbsp;below. <img width="1920" height="1152" width_o="1920" height_o="1152" data-src="https://freight.cargo.site/t/original/i/75b7e4a2d50d59a000b1880d2f1737526bd9247581cddde8b0707d7f366d68df/ecovative-lamps.jpg" data-mid="145134135" border="0" src="https://freight.cargo.site/w/1000/i/75b7e4a2d50d59a000b1880d2f1737526bd9247581cddde8b0707d7f366d68df/ecovative-lamps.jpg" /> Lamps by Ecovative